Kaddi Remix 2015

Spain starter

2015 started with a fun party in a Margalef cave:) It was certainly nice to feel the sun in Spain and I really liked going climbing with my brother, friends and Scott. My brother introduced me to climbing and for that I am super thankful!

kaddi-montsant

Montsant route time. Photo: Scott Noy

In Spain I mainly climbed easy routes, as I injured my lower back in December. There are so many good routes in Montsant and if you have the chance I recommend a walk up to the top of Montsant, such a cool view and interesting via ferrata like walking sections.

 

Fontainebleau – my favourite climbing school

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Kaddi in Vandale, Fontainebleau. Photo: Neil Hart

My back recovery went well so I was really appreciating being able to boulder in Fontainebleau. For me this place is still my favourite, regardless of grades you can learn a lot. On this trip I could do some boulders I will remember for several reasons.

Pensees cachees 7b – super nice arete

Footrix 7b – you have to do some extra foot tricks when you’re short

Mur cordier 7a – felt unclimbable first, then you try it right

Fantasia chez le ploucs 7a+ – interesting shaped holds

Ecaille de lune 7c – powerful Font piece of rock, had to use some maximal power there

Chasseur de prises 7a – defintely one of my favourites, crazy I only saw this amazing boulder now, after going to Font for so many years..

Appartenance 7c – was one of the best memories, not only physical, mainly a mental challenge and this is what makes it so rewarding to me

Sale gosse 7c – I tried it many many times, surprised myself when I sticked the intermediate sloper, small person beta works:)

Kaddi_Sale Gosse

Kaddi trying Sale Gosse 7c in 2012, first ascent by Marc le Menestrel. Photo: Scott Noy

Karma Gai 7b+ – super nice lonely boulder where I saw a really beautiful fox

Talons Aiguilles 7a+ and contorsion egocentrique 7a – jump start school and dynamic moves, working on weaknesses and succeeding is very rewarding to me

Lydie’elle 7b+ – you don’t often get nice slot pinches like that

Dolmen du divin 7c, Coup de faiblesse 7c – happy getting back into shape

Fleur de rhum 7a+ – when Marc le Menestrel showed me how to do it easily:)

Chasin’ the rubbish 4.0

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Chasin’ the rubbish 4.0 at Bas Cuvier. Photo: Scott Noy

Since many years Fontainebleau is a famous destination for climbers from all over the world. For the fourth year, Black Diamond organized the event Chasin’ the Rubbish in Fontainebleau. An event that supports cleanup and environmental awareness. During the four-day event, the Black Diamond team and athletes Nalle Hukkataival, Fred Nicole and Dorothea Karalus gathered each day, helping to teach responsible behavior on the rocks through conversations and personal contacts.

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Doro Karalus and me helping to clean Franchard Isatis. Photo: Scott Noy


In three days, around 300 kilograms of trash was picked up from the areas Isatis, Bas Cuvier and Cul du Chien bouldering areas. One goal was also to help stabilize the ground around the famous boulders known as the Big Four. Thank you all for helping!

Here is a Link to the event video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xw_bgB_Qkfc

Melloblocco

Kaddi Mello

My favourite Melloblocco comp boulder of 2015, such a nice arete line in a river. Photo: Scott Noy

Interesting weather at Melloblocco like always:) Learned to bring a rain jacket and not to take shortcuts when following the arty competition map. Never try it! I really enjoyed bouldering with many motivated girls and was happy to do 4 of the comp boulders.

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Kaddi on the podium of Melloblocco 2015.

Scott and me stayed some more days after the event and it was super nice to share the time with Liam Lonsdale and Leah Crane. Repeat, please:)

 

More rope climbing

This year the summer season was super warm and I enjoyed route climbing for a change. In our local area Gueberschwihr I improved my crack climbing skills by doing the route Arabesque. This cool line has some bouldery reachy moves in the beginning and then there is this rad fingercrack.

I teamed up with Marko Blickhan for some little people climbing in Pfalz, where both of us could do the stunning Magnetfinger arete – 7c+. Really motivating to climb with Marko as we are both not the tallest people. It helps a lot sharing beta, although sometimes we have different solutions (froschen oder eindrehen;) Magnetfinger is a historical route, that was freed by Wolfgang Güllich in the 1980s. Hopefully the holds will survive many more years.

Pfalz Magnetfinger

The beautiful Magnetfinger arete in Pfalz.

In Basler Jura it can happen that your warm up route gets your project for the day. It was very rewarding to do Mr Nobody 8a and Muskelschwund 8a. Those routes are quite bouldery but it helped improving my endurance, nice to feel progress. At Eptige I could flash Je steiler je geiler 7b+ and at Chuenisberg I could do H-Man 7c. I really had to fight for this deadpoint move into a hole at the top.

Jesteilerjegeiler

Kaddi flashing Je steiler je geiler at Eptige in Basler Jura. Photo: Scott Noy


First time in Silvretta

It was the best decision to visit Silvretta for some days, really motivating to climb with Sylwia Buczek and it’s always nice to see a new area. Motivation was high and we could share it well. Sylwia could do her first 8a+ there called Freerunner. I could do Sunshine raggae extension 8a, Nevio 7c and Krieger des Lichts 7c+.

Schattenkrieger

Chasing the shadow in Schattenkrieger, Silvretta. Photo: Anika Dreher

 

South Africa

Kaddi Lehmann on Fragile Steps 8b_Rocklands_South Africa_© photo by Scott Noy

Fragile Steps 8b. Photo: Scott Noy

Also this year Scott and me went to South Africa. I was concentrating on one project that I could realize in the end, Fragile Steps 8b. I had to try really hard, be patient, take real rest days, be in the right mindset, not expecting but wanting. It was great when all came together, very memorable process, which taught me a lot. There is a nice interview (in german) and photos on klettern.de

http://www.klettern.de/news/sportklettern-bouldern/kaddi-lehmann-bouldert-8b.1451350.5.htm

Now and then I needed some time off the project. So I went to areas or boulders I haven’t been to yet to keep motivation high. I could do Stalker on the horizon 7b+, Black Labour 7b+, L’homme sans qualite 7c, Kal El 8a and Kingdom in the sky 7c – such an incredible nice line. When I tried it last in 2010 I couldn’t do this boulder yet, but this year I found my own way.

Here is a video clip of Kal El     https://vimeo.com/150587921

Kaddi Lehmann_Kingdom in the Sky 7c, Champsite, Rocklands_photo Marinus Coetzee

Kingdom in the sky 7c. Photo: Marinus Coetzee

In French Side I could flash Sans gloire 7b+ and at a new area I could open a nice roof called Desire – I wish it was higher 7a+. Thanks to Desire for joining:)

Sans gloire

Flash of Sans gloire. Photo: Scott Noy

If you are rope climbing in Rocklands I recommend the route Orange Plasma 6b at the Orange Plasma wall and also all the other routes around there. Wow it’s a nice swing over Roadside when you clean this route:)

Also, when you are in Rocklands you can help to develop the Rocklands Climbing School project. This organisation, founded and supported by the climbers Moritz Eisenlauer, Julia Einbeckser, Chris Kelk, Desire Gird and JP du Plessis, helps local children access climbing, who are known as the ‘Rocklands Rangers’. If you like you can help out when the kids go climbing, usually every Saturday morning. Have fun and just be a part of it. Their talent and enthusiasm for climbing is wonderful to see, and the project is also focused on helping to improve their social development and skills. These kids come from disadvantaged communities and see climbers as a source of inspiration.

The Rocklands Rangers Facebook page

https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=The%20Rocklands%20Rangers

Kaddi Lehmann with the Rocklands kids climbing school_Rocklands South Africa_© photo by Frank Bogermann

Rocklands Climbing School. Photo: Frank Bogermann

 

Basler Bouldering

Just after South Africa I could do one of my boulder projects in Basler Jura.

Check the little video clip @ https://www.instagram.com/kaddilehmann/

Back to Font by train

Font autumn

Beautiful Fontainebleau autumn colours.

It was autumn season and luckily there was some good weather in Fontainebleau. Scott was already there and I had some days off before starting the Black Diamond and Five Ten Hardmoves Fight Club Tour, so I took the train. Font is always pretty at that time of the year. I could do Le lot de boudins 7c and Supplement d’armes assis 7c – which I wanted to try since a long time.

Black Diamond and Five Ten – Hardmoves Fight Club Tour

BD FiveTen Tour

To share this 3 week tour with Ivo Ninov, Iris Mundle, Roland Hemetzberger, Sylwia Buczek, Daniel Jung, Toni Lamprecht, Ines Papert, Nico & Oli Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Bob Shepton, Moni Retschy, Doro Karalus, Caroline Sinno and many interesting people was really fun. We gave climbing workshops, you could see and test new products of Black Diamond and Five Ten climbing shoes, a crack machine was there to test your crack climbing skills, slide shows of Black Diamond athletes and more.

Crack workshop

Ivo Ninov showing some crack skills at the Black Diamond Crack Machine

The tour stops were in climbing and bouldering gyms in Stuttgart, Siegen, Köln, Wuppertal, Hamburg, Berlin, Frankfurt, München, Luxembourg, Freiburg, Tübingen, Heidelberg, Nürnberg and Strasbourg (France). I got to see a lot, especially as I have never been to the north of Germany before (there are not so many rocks:) I met friends I haven’t seen in a long time and got to know really nice people.

Settup Tour

Iris and Ivo carrying the crack maschine with skills

Toni Lamprecht BD FiveTen Tour

Toni Lamprecht and his ape index

Fontainebleau once more

Right after the tour I took a train to Fontainebleau again. On the tour I gave my body a rest of intense climbing, so in Fontainebleau I took it easy with bouldering and just enjoyed being on rock again.

Although taking care I injured my back while landing after jumping down of a boulder. I took a propper rest from climbing for 2 weeks. For Christmas we went to my my hometown. It was the best to spend Christmas with my 2 year old niece and family:)

Since Fontainebleau my back has improved a lot. I took it easy first and as soon as I could I started doing exercises, improving my bodytension, working on my weak points, gaining flexibility, getting a better posture and training the “not climbing muscles”.

This year was very exciting to me, I could reach some goals and just enjoy climbing, travel to nice places and share this time with awesome people.

I’m definitely excited and looking forward for more #liveclimbrepeat

Thank you Scotty for sharing and everyone that was a part of 2015!

Thanks a lot for the support Black Diamond! Thanks for the original CU belay glasses and Sterling for their nice ropes! And also thanks Five Ten for letting me test their climbing shoes!

 

 

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