Font in between setting

This winter season has been filled with creativity – setting many new boulders and puzzles for competitions and gyms

Setting boulders in BoulderKitchen, Freiburg photo: Stefan Franke

Setting boulders in BoulderKitchen, Freiburg photo: Stefan Franke

My back was starting to feel better and I could take some time off to go to my favourite bouldering place Fontainebleau. Scott was already there, staying at Neil Hart’s Gite called “Masonbleau”. From their report, weather hasn’t been great at all, but Font was calling me, and I had to go… better not look at the forecast… and I just jumped on the train to Fontainebleau.

Place de la republique photo: Kaddi Tablet Photography

Place de la republique
photo: Kaddi Tablet Photography

I enjoyed a short stay in Paris and walked from Gare Paris Est to Gare de Lyon, interesting to see this part of the town.

J'aime Paris mais j'adore Bleau photo: Kaddi Tablet Photography

J’aime Paris mais j’adore Bleau
photo: Kaddi Tablet Photography

Then I took the next train to Fontainebleau where Scott picked me up, and… jippiee… that day we were lucky with the weather.

Gare de Fontainebleau-Avon photo: Kaddi Tablet Photography

Gare de Fontainebleau-Avon
photo: Kaddi Tablet Photography

We drove straight to Cuvier, it was so nice to climb and rock again. I had my back injury just before christmas and since then I was mainly in the gym, hanging and some campusing as that felt good for the back. The next days we weren’t so happy with the weather but we made the best out of it, cooking very yummy food and improving our movie knowledge 😉 It was very impressive and motivating to watch Nalle doing La Force du Destin, an 8b+ in Franchard Ermitage, impressive send because he was told not to try it as it has a very big move to the lip.

Nalle before he got the 3rd ascent of Force du Destin 8b+  photo: Scott Noy

Nalle before he got the 3rd ascent of Force du Destin 8b+
photo: Scott Noy

It took me some time to get used to Fontainebleau again and I forgot how hard I can or have to try sometimes. Most of the time Scott and I do problems very differently and it sometimes takes me longer to figure out if I can even do the moves. This can be frustrating but the part of bouldering that I really like – trying to solve a puzzle and no move is the same. We had one more day where I could play on Vandale – it has a hard first move and then nice moves on a heelhook to the top.

Playing on Vandale photo: Neil Hart

Playing on Vandale
photo: Neil Hart

The last two days were for sure the best days! It was a lot of fun to climb with Neil and Nalle at Vallon de la Solitude and the last day we were in Cuisiniére where Scott and I probably had our best day in Fontainebleau ever. Instead of trying just one or two very hard boulders, we went around trying many of the areas classics that we have always wanted to try, like Pensées Cachées 7b – very nice moves; Footrix 7b – cool sidepulls (when you’re short you actually have to do some foot tricks) to reach the sloper at the lip; Bizzare bizarre assis 7a+ – the nice arête left of ‘Karma’; le Mur Cordier 7a – tricky sequence (tried it with Clement before but couldn’t figure it out); Syphilisse 7a – stand up high in an undercling and while it was getting dark Red # 8 had to be done on the way home 🙂

Mental Preparation photo: Neil Hart

Mental Preparation
photo: Neil Hart

Scott had the same rad day plus he managed le Magnifique and for the last boulder before dark he did le Bleurb, a problem that had frustrated him as he couldn’t find the method, that day it clicked and went from impossible to easy. Font is special that way!. More than happy with the day we headed back to the Masonbleau for a yummy dinner!. The next day we drove back to Freiburg where we were setting boulders in Boulderkitchen in the evening – we definitely had many ideas from Fontainebleau. Thanks a lot Neil, Thomas, Nalle and Therese-Marie! It was very nice to share this with you.

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