Once again I tried to have a good day at the Basler Jura, arriving feeling strong and super psyched after my 2 previous trips to Frankenjura & Valle dell’ Orco. But once again, I came away with the feeling… “it woulda been more productive to have gone to Gueberschwihr, Kronthal, Grotte du Brotsch, well pretty much anywhere else.
Yesterday was pretty much like every other day that I’ve been there, and it goes something like this:
Step 1: Warm up Corner, 5a
The 1st half was completely dirty with mud in the crack and the second half was a chossy piller… but it warmed me up 😉
Step 2: Medium Intensity, 2x 6b+
I did the left start to the corner with a desperate traverse featuring a thumb-gaston, zero friction slopers and matching polished smears, eich 😕
… then it started to rain… not a light drizzle but a thunder downpour… which didn’t stop the whole day!
Luckily the crag overhanged so I found and fought my way up a pretty cool route with me wrestling with wet holds to clip the last 2 bolts, scary!
Step 3: Try something harder, 7c
I managed to figure out the bottom section (probably a 7b boulder on its own) and then got stuck on the “easy part”… a hold must’ve broke… bouldered through that part only to find a flake barely attached to the wall threatening to kill my belayer and the couple trying the route beside us… clean and retreat…
Step 4: Try find something dry, 7a+
My motivation was lagging as I walked along the base trying to find something that was not completely soaked as it had now been raining for 1.30hrs Daniel got halfway up a cool “looking” groove after a hour of fighting but came down after not been able to get passed a tricky section. This is a guy who 3 days ago did a 7c in Krothal! So it was my turn, and I bouldered through the start thinking I had done the hardest looking part… but soon I too was hanging unable to find a way… after searching the rock – like a blind man as the holds are impossible to find by looking – somehow again fought my way up the dirt covered holds (there was even a mushroom into one of the pockets) and crumbling feet to clip the chains. “Lower me off this chose pile”, I shouted down!
Step 5: Drive to the gym
So after 4 hours in the Jura and feeling like we haven’t even worked up a sweat as all we had done was hang in the rope, we decided to hit the gym and actually do some climbing.
I’m not sure which quote is appropriate?
If the fool would persist in his folly he would become wise
Insanity is doing the same thing over and over, and expecting a different result