Normally there are always 3 crashpads in our car. So, as soon as the weather is good ‘above’ some boulders and we have some free time, we can quickly go bouldering…preferably to Fontainebleau 🙂 For the last 3 years I was focusing on bouldering as I really enjoy it and even in summer I traveled to bouldering areas. In the last month I got more into sport climbing again and I’m quite happy about this rediscovery. It’s different, somehow like something new and very exciting for me. Now, instead of all the crashpads there is a rope & quickdraws in the car.
I was lucky to have 4 days off and at the same time the weather was good in Frankenjura, so we could go there for some climbing, cake and Kellerbier 🙂 Last year I got very close on L’eaurage 8a at Holzgauer Wand so I was really keen to go back and try it again… but when I stood in front of it, it just showed me its wet face. We went to some other crags in Frankenjura that were extremely wet still despite the good weather. For example the top part of Diebesloch was completely unclimbable. Luckily we got some good tips of local friends as to what could be dry. Thanks a lot Philip Hrozek 🙂 So during the 4 days in Frankenjura we could enjoy some really cool routes. A few very nice climbs were at Rote Wand, some really cool classics from Kurt Albert like Knupper Ged.-Weg…so much fun! At Toni Schmidt Ged.-Wand I managed to flash Mambo Cavallero which has a cool roof arete section. At the Klinge I could flash Dumbo 7b+ and later during the day I did Chicken Modul 7b+ with a cool bouldery start and Ugo Tizzoni Ged.-Weg 7b+. Scott also did those cool routes and thanks to him giving me the beta I could flash it.
We also went to Kuhkirchner Wand where I tried Lochverstärker 7c+. I really enjoyed working on this route and was very happy to be able to do it on the last day. This route has some really cool moves. The crag is definitely a good one to go even if the weather is crappy. Despite of some inbetween showers it stayed dry. After we had at lot of very yummy cake (every sentence should start like that), we drove back to Freiburg as there was some uniwork to do.
A few days later Marko Blickhan, Daniel (one of my flat mates) and me went to Saverne in France to climb at Grotte du Brotsch, where I had tried the route Le Traité de Déversification 8a previously. That day the conditions were quite good and not as hot as last time I tried it. The Crux for me definitely are the 4 “slap ups as far as you can” from the crimp-rail where most people with a bigger shoulder hydraulic just slap up 2 times. It’s a big lock of for the left shoulder. That day I reached the crimp-rail being fit enough to finish those moves 🙂 It was very impressive to see Marko trying the same route. He’s about the same height as me and got all the moves very quickly. We didn’t have much time that day so he could only try it twice but next time he’ll do it!
Two days later Marko, Daniel, Andi (also a flat mate) and me went to Kronthal. As I always went bouldering, I haven’t climbed a lot there before even if it is quite close to Freiburg. Daniel and me could do Acmé Juvénile 7b+ which is a super fun route. Marko sent Orange Amer 8a to the right the previous week, which is a really proud line with some burly undercling moves. Thanks to his beta I was able to do all the moves and I now have a really nice project in Kronthal.
This summer I’ll most likely stay in Europe and do some short trips while writing my master thesis in Freiburg to finish my sport science studies. I’m keen to do some sport climbing also in France hopefully. I’ve already been to France a lot but this was when I was little and traveled there with my family & friends to do kayaking and canyoning. For me there is still a lot to discover 🙂
But of course, in autumn as soon as the conditions are good in Fontainebleau, or somewhere in Switzerland, I’ll be very keen to boulder again!
Link to the news of escalade-alsace news: