Fontainebleau… AGAIN!

Ever since we came back from MelloBlocco last year we had scheduled it into our agenda for ’13. We were psyched to finally get our hands on all those boulders made impossible with the rain… but alas, the weather Gods were still not in any mood to let us into this playground… so as always, Fontainebleau is a great Plan B!

Kaddi sending Il Baffo di Dali on the one non-rain day last year

Kaddi sending Il Baffo di Dali 7c @ MelloBlocco 2012 on the one non-rain day.

After a day of easy climbing in the Basler Jura (if there is such a thing?) we arrived late to the forest blanketed in mist, and everything dripping from the humidity… but we had our fingers crossed as the weather forecast looked great for the next few days!

Kaddi had made up a playlist and 1st was Rocher Canon and 36.15 power. After a brief warm-up Kaddi set about figuring out the beta but the powerful lock-off on the pinch had taken its toll and the guns were empty. I was feeling low on energy so between Kaddi’s tries I cleaned a couple of new lines I found. After 3 hours of scrubbing I was able to add Tree Hugging Hippies and Unfinished business, to this classic area. After this I joined Kaddi on 36.15 power but only managed the left exit which is good fun.

Next on Kaddi’s list was Sale Gosse at Roche aux Sabots. She had tried it on most of our previous trips but being smaller the last move to the top, for most, involves three desperate moves for her. Waiting for it to get cooler we figured out and climbed (as usual we did it completely different) Sphincters Toniques, a 7a+ with knee-bars, cool pinches and a dyno. Sale Gosse remains on the list…

Kaddi trying hard to hard to humid pockets on Sale Gosse

Kaddi trying hard to hold onto the humid pockets of Sale Gosse.

I had found the Guichot Business roof during our Easter trip and we were both excited to go and check it out. We were lucky to find some Bleausards there as it has many variations and they were able to give us some beta – one of whom opened the strange reverse mantle Crocodile @ Isatis 🙂 I set about trying Guichot Business but after an hour of not being able to figure out where to top-out, I did Achoppement Libre a 7b line to the left 2nd try. Kaddi meanwhile was trying the left variation to this line and at the end of the day with our powers combined had figured out all the beta.

Bleausard ladies rocking t "old school"

Bleausard ladies rocking it “old school” at Rocher Guichot

After one more day of fighting with hot and humid conditions Kaddi finally sent Coup de Force 7c/+ without too much trouble after getting up early (9am, i guess isn’t early for most) and using the cold morning temps… oh, and then she did Achoppement Libre, Conduite Forcêe & Rombiere assis as a cool down 😉

It wasn’t all sunshine, the next day, after a late breakfast, we ended up walking around Rocher d’Avon in the rain for a couple of hours after which we ended up playing cards and finishing off all the alcohol we had just bought for the next 2 days 🙂

After this rest day we were motivated for a full day of climbing to end the trip. Everyone had something at the back of Isatis so we put our bags down near Iceberg and warmed up. We started the day with Iceberg raccourci, a 7a+ with a heel hook crux. Then we all split up as we were a group of 8 and I joined Sôren at El Poussif 7a+, he had tried it before so I got the weird beta which definitely helped. SO cool to flash such a classic! The day was going well and I thought why not try L’angle Ben’s, a balancey 7a+ arête/slab. After figuring out the beta… basically trying to get your left foot to stay on the impossible SHITTY smear on the arête. After about 30 foot pops over 2 hours it eventually stayed and I was able to jump to the top. Kaddi meanwhile had sent Les Deux Font la Paire, a 7a+, and Respect d’Intention 7a.

What a rad day and a super last Fontainebleau trip before the heat of the summer!

Thx to all those who we met up with, good times!!!!


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