Those who read the previous post would know we’ve had a lot of time this winter/spring’s weather to write something about last year…
it started in Varazze…
Scott and I arrived just in time for the start of the fireworks over the Mediterranean at a friends place in Finale. We wanted to spend some time bouldering in Varazze as the weather in Ticino was bad and we were in the mood for exploring a new area as it’s really motivating to see and try some new boulders. At first it rained quite a bit but being close to the Mediterranean we could enjoy some nice italian coffee and pizza at the beach. We had some really good days too, the last one just before leaving I managed to fight through the powerful crux move ‘Messa delle streghe Fb7c’, great end to a great trip!
Messa delle streghe 7c, Varazze by Scott Noy
Fontainebleau… was one of the best trips this year. I can never spend enough time in this forest. It is my favourite place to boulder. We went to many of the classic areas but also had time to explore some of the less popular areas with some hidden gems. We ran around like little kids in an incredibly huge playground.
One of my highlights of our trip, and the year, was being able to climb ‘Atomic playboy 7c+’. The first time I went there I just played around on some of the moves. The starting moves were too hard and getting through the slopey rail took so much endurance I didn’t really believe I would be able to this boulder. I came back a few days later and found out how to do those first moves which was very motivating. I decided to give it some real goes from the start, just to see how far I could possibly get. Of course, on the first tries I fell quite pumped at some point on the slopey rail but three times I got very close to the finishing moves which gave me hope that somehow it might go. It was very motivating to get that far but at the same time a little frustrating that I was so close. Suddenly I couldn’t do the first part of the boulder anymore but after a very long rest I tried it again and somehow I managed to linked the 5 more finishing moves, even though I was exhausted as on the previous tries. Finding myself sitting on top of the boulder in the sun, I just had to smile and enjoy the moment.
Atomic Playboy 7c+, Buthiers, Fontainebleau by Scott Noy
Every time we come to Font we try to go to areas we haven’t been before to see something new. One really nice line we both really enjoyed was ‘Kathioushka’, a 7b+ at Les Béorlots. We also went to Rocher des Demoiselles, where I sent ‘Chaman’ 7c in only a few tries. During our yearly Easter Trip I also managed to do ‘Biceps Mou’ 7b, ‘Bleau’s Art’ 7b (Flash), ‘Moby Dick’ 7c in Cuvier Est, ‘EOS’ 7b, ‘Welcome to Tijuana’ 7c, ‘Bifurcation-Diversion Kombi’ 7c, ‘Jambe de bois’ 7b+, ‘La barre fixe’ 7b+ and ‘Le plafond’ 7b+. And of course like every time in Font I found many new projects, which makes it easy to come back 🙂
Chaman 7c, Rocher de Demoiselles, Fontainebleau by Scott Noy
South Africa… In May Scott left for his season in South Africa… and after I finished the semester with my sport science studies i joined him there. My brother and friends that I started climbing with also came over and spent the summer in South Africa. It was super nice to see everyone again and share such a great time, it was a really fun crew. Of course we spent some time in Rocklands but we also wanted to show them some more of the country and also other climbing areas, which was super as South Africa has a lot to offer.
We spent 4 days at Wolfberg showing them the amazing tradclimbing as well as a day at Paarl Rocks taking them up some of Scott’s multi-pitch sport routes. The latter has very unique rock formations, huge granite egg-shaped rocks. We also spent some days sport climbing in Montagu and Trutjiieskraal, it was a fun relaxed time and i really have fond memories thinking back. We spent a couple of days bouldering up at Topside near Cape Town where I was able to do ‘War of the worlds’ 7c,’Life aquatic’ 7c and ‘Shrek 2’ 7b+. It’s a really nice view from up there because of the peninsular surrounded by the sea – feels like being on an island.
And yes..of course we had to spend at least a week in Rocklands. It’s impossible to skip this place when you’ve come all the way… also for some double brandy n coke at the bar 🙂 I wanted to try ‘Une rime stupide’ 7c+ again, a boulder at Roadcrew I tried the previous year. After figuring out how to use the sloper without loosing the body tension I was exhausted and had come back to send it the following day even though I really had really sore muscles. I also tried ‘No late tenders’ 7c+ at Fields of Joy but there are always some things that you need to leave behind for next time.
No late tenders 7c+, Fields of Joy, Rocklands by Marinus Coetzee
During the time in Rocklands I managed to do ‘Man or machine’ 7c, in a day ‘Tennis biscuit’ 7b+, ‘Systematic Session’ 7b+, ‘Labyrinths’ 7b (first ascent) and ‘Technicolour dreamcoat’ 7c in a day – one of the best roofs in Rocklands with some really nice moves.
Technicolour dreamcoat 7c, The Otherside, Rocklands by Scott Noy
Frankenjura… At the end of summer Scott and I came back to Germany and as we both really like cake and beer, we had to go to Frankenjura. We only had 4 days but that was long enough to find some new projects which I’m really motivated for. One of which is ‘L’eaurage’ 8a at Holzgauer Wand, where I came very close but endurance was lacking.
L’eaurage 8a, Holzgauer Wand, Frankenjura by Scott Noy
We also went to Marientaler Wand where I could do ‘Leftfield’ 8a. It was a lot of fun to try the short bouldery route and find a way for me through the grip puzzle. First the upper part of the route felt unclimbable, I just couldn’t link the moves somehow. Then I fell on the very last move back to the first quickdraw – so I knew at least that it should go. I rested for a while and then in the next try everything felt perfect and I could clip the chain …and go back to freiburg more than happy.
Tessin… And then there was autumn already with all its nice colours. We enjoyed the last warming sun of the year in Ticino. We spent some days in Schattental, a sector we haven’t been before. It was a lot of fun as all the boulders were new for us. On the boulder Pet therapie sit down I had to deal with the frictionless sloper, which is not really my strength, but somehow I managed it. I could do Schnittstelle in two tries, which is a nice line through a overhanging crimpshield, so I also tried the nice right exit called ‘Sollbruchstelle’ 7c+. It took a while to figure out how I could release the left hand with my feet in front, without swinging into a barn door and rolling down the slab underneath. It’s not that easy if your armspan is below 160 cm. A couple of tries later I found cool beta for it but my body tension was lacking. The next day I was recovered enough and managed to do all the moves without rolling down the slab, and instead finished on top with a smile across my face. Sadly a month later a hold on that really cool shield got chipped. A few other boulders including Komilator, Vitruvian man and Arcadia also were chipped during the same time. I really don’t understand the mentality why someone would chip an established line like Komilator, or Schnittstelle…
2013…forward selecta I’m super motivated for whatever comes next, mainly because of all the good times last year, spent with awesome like-minded people… but also I would like to continue my progress of last year. I managed to do some boulders, that I wasn’t even able to leave the ground a couple of years ago…
There is still so much to explore, and that’s what makes climbing very special to me..climbing is having a good time with good people, travelling to different places and experiencing other ways of life. I can’t wait untill the sun finally makes it this year and with it hopefully some more dry rock!
by Scott Noy
Many thanks to Black Diamond for the crashpads with the new foam, Monkee for the nice clothes and Scott & Marinus for the super radical pictures 🙂